A friend put it nicely as we were sipping our 7-11 champagne out of plastic cups in front of Mes Amis, right after the Hong Kong Sevens final game. She said ‘This city is like living in Neverland; you never have to grow up, and nobody thinks you’re ridiculous for doing things your own way’. Gwailo power is what we used to call it. Gwailo power, of course, applied only to us expats.
Hong Kong is a bubble in every sense – geographically, politically and socially. A unique gem in the heart of the South China Sea, strategically located short distances from all major East Asian destinations. The city calls itself a ‘World City’, a sarcastic label for this detached metropolis in my eyes. If it WERE a world city, its people would truly care about the consequences of their actions – the unfolding environmental disaster which they breath in every day, their apathetic approach and acceptance of Mainland China’s injustices and their lack of interest in world news.
Wealth in this city was historically connected to the rise in the manufacturing industries of Guangdong region. Up until the nineties, Hong Kong served as the main gateway into and out of China. It’s phenomenal wealth multiplied exponentially during the colonial times. But Hong Kongers are paying the heavy price now. As China opens its gates to the world, Hong Kong loses its competitive advantage. It is no longer the base for managing manufacturing and production lines. While the current generation does not receive as many financial benefits as their predecessors, they are paying the high price with their lungs. Until China is pressured to regulate its manufacturing etiquette (a term that doesn’t really work in mainland China), we are all to blame for this constant gray that hovers over the city. We strengthen the smog with every single Made-in-China product and material that we purchase.
As clean as this city tries to be (and post-SARS it is SUBSTANTIALLY cleaner), pollution levels are alarming. I saw the sun probably twice during my two week stay. A constant gray covers the city, as pollution streams come in from Guangdong. Sure, when I lived in Hong Kong I had gotten used to the gray, but coming from sunny California was difficult this time. A local restaurant owner in Causeway Bay once told me about his days growing up in Hong Kong some fourty years ago – clear blue skies and daily swims in the Victoria Harbour. These days are long gone. I would dare even dip a finger in the victoria harbor. Why are the people of Hong Kong so apathetic to these so-called externalities which directly affect their environment? Why do they not come together against the environment hazard unfolding in the Mainland?
Oiwan Lam, Global Voices Online Editor explained just how difficult it is to motivate Hong Kong youth towards activism. They don’t see the point. Hong Kong has never really had wars, nor an army. A space in-between. A bubble.
However, one thing I’ve always appreciated about expat life is how integrated different age groups are. It is common to hang out with a variety of people, from younger to older, it doesn’t matter in Hong Kong. This trip, however, I felt different. Maybe its because I’ve spent too much time in the States, but this time I started noticing things I could not excuse. For instance spotting a colleague from the past (probably in his 50’s) flirting and dancing real close to a 20 year old young Eurasian girl. Something I would have easily let pass by while living there, but could not this time. It just wasn’t right. Neither were the young Thai girls getting it on with fat old white businessmen.
Perhaps I’ve grown up, or maybe I finally feel I’ve left this city for good. This visit, I kept my eyes wide open. Constantly comparing, and noticing little faults I’d never seen before. I used to love living inside this perfect shielded world. Now am on the outside looking in. Realizing it is about to burst.
[tags]hong kong, HK, travel [/tags]